Hello, my friends! It’s been several months since I was last able to write a blog post, but I have a few minutes now to share one with you! Last week, after spending all of July and then some preparing the photographs for fiber artist Windy Chien’s book (due out next year!), M. Cheesemonger and I headed off for a vacation. We had originally planned not one, but two European itineraries with friends, but both fell through, and so we were left casting about for another plan.
Mexico came to the rescue! We decided on Tulum, and tacked on the city of Valladolid further in on the Yucatan Peninsula afterward. Here are some of the stand-outs from our time in Tulum.
Tulum Hotel: Mi Amor
Take me back to Mi Amor!! This adult-only hotel was the perfect paradise getaway. It is part of the same group as other well-known Tulum hotels as El Pez, Mezzanine, and La Zebra, and sits overlooking the beautiful beryl ocean. M. Cheesemonger and I absolutely adored our stay on this cliff top paradise. The staff was attentive and always available to help us figure out our plans, our jungle view room with private outdoor Jacuzzi was immaculate and comfortable, the restaurant served delicious meals (OMG the Maya Tarta at breakfast), and the seaside cabanas made for perfect reading perches. I even took advantage of the spa, and had one of the most wonderful massages of my life. It was, admittedly, a bit of a splurge to stay at Mi Amor, but our experience there was exquisite.
Hotel Mi Amor: Carretera Tulum-Bocapaila Km. 4.1, Zona Costera, 77780 Tulum, Q.R., Mexico. +52 1 984 188 4273
Tulum Food: Hartwood
Acclaimed restaurant Hartwood, owned by husband and wife team Eric Werner and Mya Henry, have created a stunning culinary paradise within idyllic Tulum. So many people said we had to try it, I caved and managed to snag a reservation. Like so many places in Tulum, the style is indoor/outdoor (mainly outdoor), lit with candles, and guarded from mosquitoes by copal smoke. M. Cheesemonger and I feasted on two types of ceviche, including a wonderfully savory “Yucatan ceviche.” M. Cheesemonger’s grouper was delectable, while my slow-cooked pork ribs were filling, offering a gorgeous medley of savors. Our dessert, a banana-cocoa trifle, offered a familiar combination of flavors, but in a delicate and surprising new presentation. The restaurant was cash-only, and because it’s hard to find pricing info for this place online, I’m happy to share we paid the equivalent of about $80/person including drinks.
Hartwood: Carretera Tulum Boca Paila 7.6Km, 77780 Tulum, Q.R., Mexico. Wed-Sunday: 5:30pm-10pm.
More Tulum Food: Mur Mur
Just next to Hartwood is Mur Mur, where Chef Diego Hernández Baquedano uses his background from Baja California to craft surprising and compelling dishes using fresh Yucatan ingredients. M. Cheesemonger enjoyed the restaurant’s unusual craft beer selection, opting for an agave beer from Allende Brewery. The ceviche, our shared appetizer, was the one dish that was just all right, but our main dishes were absolutely stunning. I chose a squash dish, which featured mescal-soaked raisins, dill, a sweet herbal sauce, and pumpkin seeds. M. Cheesemonger’s grouper served up smoky, savory, spicy, and earthy notes for a satisfying dinner. In some ways, we enjoyed our dinner at Mur Mur more than the one at Hartwood because it was so surprising!
Mur Mur: Carretera Boca Paila Km 7.5, Tulum 77780, Mexico. Wednesday-Monday: 5pm-11:30pm.
Tulum Activities: The Mayan Ruins
From our hotel, the ruins were only about 1 kilometer away. M. Cheesemonger and I rented bicycles to go there, skipping any offered tours. We showed up to the ruins at about 10am, so it was already quite crowded. If you want the ruins to yourself, plan on arriving at 8am when the site opens. The adjoining beach, usually open to visitors, was closed because of the enormous amounts of seaweed coming onto the shores. The area is a popular site for egg-laying sea turtles, and I couldn’t help but worry for them as we saw the enormous piles of seaweed along the entire coast. According to a local guide we spoke to, every year, that seaweed buildup has been getting worse and worse. It sounded like this year’s tourism numbers are low because of it, but at the same time, the coast is seeing more seaweed because of increased development along the coast and pollution.
Mayan Ruins Tulum: 8am-5pm every day. Anyone will be able to direct you to the ruins if you just mention them.
As for the ruins themselves, expect to spend between 1-2 hours there, and be prepared to be amazed by the views! Definitely wear sunscreen! Skip all those people hawking tours, and just pay the entrance fee (70 pesos maybe?) to go in yourself.
Tulum Activities: Cenotes
One friend’s main advice to me was to visit as many cenotes as possible. Cenotes, some might ask? These limestone sinkholes, filled with rainwater, groundwater, or sometimes brackish water, are truly a wonder of nature! After visiting my first one, the Casa Cenote in Tulum, M. Cheesemonger and I decided to visit at least one a day. There are, after all, thousands in the Yucatan Peninsula. Admission to the cenotes varies per site. Some require that a guide accompany you to visit the fragile ecosystem, and these tend to cost more. If you’re looking for cenote visiting tips, here’s the biggest one: do NOT wear sunscreen, bug repellant, lotions, perfumes, or any other product on your skin. It can easily contaminate the water and destroy the delicate balance of the cenote ecosystem. The other tip: bring your Go-Pro! Other cenotes that M. Cheesemonger and I visited in Tulum:
- Sac Actún: this cave system cenote is not really for splashing around and having fun. M. Cheesemonger and I were taken around by a guide, who explained how the caves were formed and the wildlife we encountered (bats, motmot birds, swallows, fish, oh my! . . . . )
- Casa Tortuga: We were led along by our taxi driver to visit this place, so I’m sure he got a cut of our inflated entrance fee, but it was pretty neat visiting 3 cenotes in one visit—two cave ones, and one open-air cenote. The open-air one was perfect for me—I loved watching birds fly from tree to tree overhead while lazily swimming in crystalline waters. I only wish the guides enforced a little more respect of the rock formations inside the caves.
- Tulum Reef: Ok, not a cenote, but in the ocean. Because of the aforementioned seaweed, the reef was that pleasant to swim in, but that probably changes when the seaweed goes down. Plus, you have the chance to see one of the area’s sea turtles.
The Town: Tulum
Tired of the resort life, M. Cheesemonger and I headed into Tulum town on a couple occasions. There, we found plenty of souvenirs to take back (I developed a minor pompom obsession during this trip, and got many). Food options were cheaper and more plentiful than at the exclusive resorts, so M. Cheesemonger hung around to try some food at a few local spots. Nothing particularly memorable comes to mind, although the tacos al pastor are yum, as are the many juice and smoothie options.
Safety In Tulum
Prior to leaving, I had read a bunch of articles and State Department notices about increased safety risks in Mexico, including in Quintana Roo, the state where Tulum is located. I was even nervous about going on the trip because of those articles. That said, when we arrived there, it was clear that Tulum is really a very sleepy town. I felt safer from aggression on the streets and beaches of Tulum than in San Francisco, which has definitely been seeing a crime surge lately. On the safety front, I’d say to be aware of your surroundings, don’t flash your cash or fanciest jewelry, don’t accept drinks from strangers, and don’t wander into dark, isolated areas alone. You should be ok!
Cheesemonger and I spent 4 short yet incredible days in Tulum. Apart from our spectacular hotel, sun, swimming spots, and the abundance of delicious food and fresh juices, we loved the thunderstorms! Watching billowy clouds across the ocean, and hearing cracks of thunder throughout the night was such a treat for us San Franciscans. It was a blessing in disguise that a huge storm our first night in Tulum knocked out our hotel Internet. I could spend the days just soaking them up instead of trying to check emails, post to Instagram, and waste time staring at my screen. That was the best break of all!
What are your best Tulum tips? Let me know, so I can keep them for my next visit there!
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