Hello, my friends! Today, I am so thrilled to share with you a little collaboration I did with Goat Cheeses of France, mainly because French goat cheese is what prompted my interest in cheese in the first place, many moons ago! I was studying in Aix-en-Provence, and had read that goat cheese was a significant part of the culinary and agricultural landscape, particularly after kidding season in the spring. I didn’t have much idea of what that all meant, but I went to the markets that spring eager to experience that citrusy, pillowy goodness, kissed by lavender breezes and ocher sun, just like the guide books told me I should do. Ah, how much and how little have changed since then!
The goat cheeses that were shared with me by Goat Cheeses of France come from different regions of France, more toward the center by the Loire and Poitou regions. I received three specimens–all of which I have had the pleasure of tasting in my previous collaboration with Goat Cheeses of France–Petit Billy, Chevrot, and Selles-sur-Cher. Speaking with brand ambassador and cheese superstar Tia Keenan was an extra added bonus to the experience. She particularly wished to share with me her philosophical view on cheese–that cheese represents the amalgamation of humanity. All of the knowledge, know-how, flavor profile development, and passion surrounding cheese, first sparked thousands of years ago and culminating in these perfect hunks of dairy goodness available to us today, is part of a thread of history and existence. Now, as we enjoy a French goat cheese like Chevrot, or Valençay, or Mothais Sur Feuille, we become a part of that thread. We extend it and stretch it into the future. It is a vital part of our existence and collective heritage.
My original plan for these beauties was to present them at a holiday party we were holding, and to use the leftover Petit Billy to make a goat cheese fondue. However, they enjoyed such great success at the party, there was practically nothing left afterward. Instead, the cheeses did what I think cheeses do best–bring people together around a shared experience of fine taste and texture, tradition and craft.
Petit Billy
Pasteurized goat, traditional rennet, aged 2-3 weeks
This is the mildest and least complicated cheese of the bunch, with ever-so-slight animal and barnyard notes and lactic tang. I particularly loved the long, sweet finish, so reminiscent of fresh milk. Its wet, crumbly texture makes for easy spreading, and it is easy to munch on! It comes wrapped in a pretend chestnut leaf, which adds a little color to the cheese board.
Chevrot
Pasteurized goat, traditional rennet, aged 3-5 weeks
This cheese comes from the Poitou region of France, a region I have an affinity for because it also boasts a special breed of donkey. When M. Cheesemonger and I were in a long distance relationship, one of the many cards he sent me was of a Poitou donkey. It’s still my favorite card! In any case, Chevrot is hand-ladled into forms to age into baseball-sized rounds. Its wrinkly rind houses a luscious cream line, which encircles a denser, thick, ice creamy center. The citrus and mushroomy notes make this cheese a wonderful crowd pleaser.
Selles-Sur-Cher
Pasteurized goat, traditional rennet, aged 3-5 weeks
While all of the cheeses were well-loved by my guests, the Selles-Sur-Cher, enrobed in its ashen grey rind, received the most attention. Everyone loved the contrast of the pillowy, fluffy white paste with the grey rind. Its lemony smell won over hearts immediately. This was the most citrusy cheese of the bunch, while also maintaining an umami undercurrent. It tastes like spring on the Cher river! I have a real soft spot for ash-ripened goat cheeses, and I think Selles-Sur-Cher perfectly demonstrates the qualities I love the most!
My favorite accompaniments for goat cheese include citrus, chocolate (especially dark chocolate), and candied pecans. In this case, I quickly candied these pecans at home using honey and sea salt on the stove.
What’s on your holiday cheese plate? I always love hearing from you!
Thanks to Goat Cheese of France and Tia Keenan for speaking with me, and sending me these cheeses to taste. All opinions are my own.
