Hello, my friends! Right now, as most of us are not able to travel, I have been dreaming of past trips, and imagining future ones. I feel so lucky that in 2019, I was able to take one of my closest girlfriends, my heart sister Sarah, to France for the first time. She had never been, and I had never really shown anyone what I love so much about this place. We planned for months, and it was just about the most perfect two weeks ever. If you are looking for some pointers on where to go in Brittany, or another corner of France to explore besides Paris, check it out! I’ll post our Paris activities in a separate article.
1. Somewhere In Normandy
We began our visit by picking up my custom hat by Les Chapeaux de Béa, a wonderful artisan located just outside of Paris. I’m happy to link her here–wait until you see the beautiful hat she made for me! We were attending a wedding in London at the end of this trip, and I wanted to make my wedding hat dreams come true in the best way!
After that, we drove to M. Cheesemonger’s hometown in Normandy, which I’m going to keep secret. It’s charming, it’s medieval, it has a moat, and when it’s sunny, it feels like the village in Beauty and the Beast. That said, there are hundreds of equally charming villages and towns all over Normandy, if you are able to drive along those tiny country roads.
There is this medieval tower and all in the center of town, so I grabbed Sarah for a photo session the day after we arrived. We had already worked out outfits for her before leaving because I KNEW I needed to photograph her among all the French gorgeousness.
2. Mont-Saint-Michel
Ah, the Mont-Saint-Michel. This islet at the edge of Normandy and Brittany, surrounded by ever-changing tides, packed with history and stunning architectural roots dating back to the 8th century. I first visited it when I was working in Normandy, fresh out of college, and remember it taking my breath away. This time was no different; I wanted Sarah to witness its magnificence as the gateway stop on this road trip we were on.
Yes, it is very popular among tourists, especially in the summer. But come when it’s rainy, or in the off-season, and you may find some moments to yourself in the lofty halls of the abbey, or along the sloped cobblestone streets.
3. St. Malo
Our first overnight stop in Brittany was at the seaside port city of St. Malo, where we rented two rooms at Le Manoir de la Baronnie, a malouinière, or 17th century manor built by the wealthy corsairs and privateers of the time. Sarah’s WC was lined with dozens of vintage portrait photos, the main bannister sported an enormous lion’s head at the bottom, and the breakfast was plentiful, and was probably the most delicious of our trip. We tried to eat every cake, pastry, and bread available, but alas, could not. The grounds were beautifully kept, and Sarah and I had so much fun running around taking advantage of every picturesque nook.
The town is home to La Maison Bordier, of butter fame. It was the only spot on my list for the town, and it was closed for vacation! My heart still cries over it, but I know I’ll be able to return one day. We stopped for a seafood platter at one of the many terrasses facing the sea, and were able to taste some Bordier butter there, as well as an enormous quantity of oysters and seafood.
We did not have time to go to the famed sea water/thalassotherapy spas that line the coast, but that will be a goal for a future visit!
I encourage you to visit St. Malo if you have the occasion!
4. Châteaux
Sarah loves châteaux, and I wanted to show as many of them as possible to her during our trip. When we weren’t visiting castles, we were hiking around some secluded spots in the countryside.
Château de Josselin
The Château de Josselin was first constructed in the 11th century, and has been modified over the years. There is a sizeable doll museum in town, as one of the castle’s former residents was an avid collector. As Sarah is a professional costumer, it was fun seeing the clothing on all of the antique dolls from around the world! The castle tour is on the short side, but those few rooms we got to see are stunning, and the tour was full of castle history. The grounds were in full bloom when we were there.
There are a number of quaint crêperies along the water, but we ended up at Crêperie de la Marine. The savory buckwheat galettes were fabulous, but the star of the show was the sweet dessert crêpe with crème d’amande, a buttery, almondy confection made with that rich, local Brittany butter. I still dream of that crêpe to this day.
Château des Rohan
In the charming town of Pontivy, the Château des Rohan was built in the 15th century. It regularly hosts art exhibits, but was closed when we arrived (a little late in the day, I admit). It was still wonderful to walk around the castle, and to explore the town. There were a handful of delightful antique shops, and a number of textile makers and designers, as the town has a strong textile history. Truly–the textiles were stunning and opulent! If only I had a castle to furnish.
5. Lorient
During this trip, we only spent one day in Lorient, and enjoyed a quick dip in the ocean while visiting some relatives. In the past, though, M. Cheesemonger and I have attended the massive Festival Interceltique de Lorient, a massive celebration of Celtic cultures that I hope to attend again one day! If you are a fan of the beach or maritime culture and history, Lorient is a gorgeous place to stop.
6. Vannes
Vannes is a charming medieval city, but we did not have much time to visit inside the city walls! Instead, we dined at the Michelin-starred restaurant La Gourmandière-La Table d’Olivier. It was another experience I wanted to share with Sarah–that of dining at one of the most celebrated tables in the area! The restaurant was constructed inside a former barn, and the meal was delightful from start to finish. Combining local fresh seafood and other seasonal ingredients into a refined and elegant dining experience, Chef Olivier Samson has created a wonderful culinary homage to his environment.
Along the way, we visited the standing stones of Carnac, the largest collection of megalithic standing stones in the world. There is a resident herd of sheep keeping the grass in check.
7. Nantes
Nantes, situated along the Loire River, near the Atlantic, is a city rich in history, longtime a center of commerce, shipping, transportation, and trade. With a strong commitment to the arts, a gorgeous cathedral, beautiful museums, shopping, and vibrant music scene, it’s one of the loveliest cities in France to visit if you want to get out of Paris. Not only that, because it is at the junction of the Loire Valley and Brittany, you can easily visit any number of natural or historical sites from Nantes. As with every other city, we did not get to spend nearly enough time here, but managed to tour the cathedral, visit the history museum inside the Château des Ducs de Bretagne (highly informative and recommended!), and enjoy the gorgeous historical downtown. I really cannot wait to return to experience more of this beautiful city!
I’ve included links to all the locations I talked about, so that you can get addresses, opening hours, and ticket information. I look forward to sharing what Sarah, M. Cheesemonger, and I did in Paris next!
